Redingotes, calças e cartolas: George Sand e a subversão através da indumentária por uma historiografia da moda

Abstract

This research examines the life and legacy of George Sand (1804-1876), a French writer of aristocratic descent who defied the social and gender norms of the 19th century. Born Aurore Dupin, she adopted a male pseudonym to publish her works and attain recognition in a predominantly male literary environment. Central to this study is her distinctive choice of attire, particularly her adoption of men's clothing, which is analyzed as both a reflection of and a tool for enacting social and cultural disruption. Sand's preference for men's garments, such as trousers and frock coats, extended beyond mere practicality; it represented an act of transgression and a claim to personal autonomy. This sartorial choice enabled her to navigate through public and cultural spaces in Paris - traditionally male-dominated - with greater freedom, thereby exposing and challenging the prevailing gender inequalities of her time. While her initial motivations were pragmatic rather than explicitly feminist, her stance evolved into a symbol of emancipation. Men's fashion during the period prioritized functionality, whereas women's fashion was restrictive and ornamental, reinforcing their societal subordination. Sand, however, rejected these conventions, donning attire that subverted the authority symbolized by men's trousers. This study also explores artistic representations of Sand, such as lithographs by Alcide Lorentz and Paul Gavarni, which alternately mocked and admired her defiance. Despite facing misogynistic criticism, Sand earned the respect and admiration of many intellectuals and artists in her circle, including Franz Liszt and Alexandre Dumas. Her trajectory demonstrates that clothing can serve as an "archive" of social change, embodying struggles for freedom and gender equality. By challenging the gender norms of her era, Sand did not reject the differences between the sexes; rather, she asserted the right to active participation in society, unshackled by the constraints of contemporary conventions. However, this work does not merely seek to glorify Sand but instead presents her as a case study that illustrates how fashion can function as a marker and agent of historical transformation.